Now remove the actuator seal and you will see it's running in a needle bearing with a couple of needles missing - that is where the pushrod goes through.
I doubt a wash will get everything out if you don't.Ĭirclip, some sort of cover, spindle with spring and bearing and small seal, piston with pins and o-ring, pushrod, e-brake actuator. If you're not doing the e-brake seals you HAVE TO COVER THIS UP before removing the rust. Now it sits allright (look at inserted picture) Here's that trick: find something in the right diameter (just a little smaller than the circlip) and press the circlip back in. I found the circlip to be partly out of its groove (must have been so from new) so I did remove it but I needed a "trick" to get it back in. I guess I will replace it if it ever gets stuck again. The piston is pitted and I was a bit worried it would not seal again but it did. Now it shows why it got stuck every now and then. No need to remove the nut (if you do: it has loctite on the thread) Now is a good time to remove the e-brake spring. The e-brake cable bracket is allready removed. This is what it looks like after 9 years of rain & salt. This is a tool I made to make it a bit easier to turn the rear piston. The circlip that sits at the bottom of the caliper is hard to reach with any other tool. This is a tool you must have to replace the e-brake seals.
In the middle from top to bottom: 2 aluminum washers for the banjo bolt (brake line), sliding pin boots, e-brake system seals. I say "piston" because the seal seats in the caliper.
On the right the "piston" seal and the dust boot.
S2KI.COM EVANS STOPPED DOING ETUNES HOW TO
Here are some pics and some tips on how to rebuild the rear caliper.
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